Ten Questions to Consider Before Buying That New Computer

By: T. Byron Tedder
Published: 2011-06-29

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If you've ever been called a geek, then this article is probably not for you. This article is only for people who consider themselves clueless when it comes to computer and technology purchases. It is for people like my mom, who will never read this article because she has no clue how do a Google search, or even what a "Google" is.

Okay, maybe you're not that bad. But if you're like most people in this category, you will put off buying a new computer until your current computer has breathed its last and moved on to better places and greener pastures, metaphorically speaking. The time will come when a new computer is a necessity, and the thing you should never do is buy the first shiny one you see.

But how do you know what to get? You have to know the difference between gigabytes and gigahertz. You're going to come face-to-face with bizarre letter and number combinations like RAM, HDD, SSD, L2, FSB, LCD, LED, DDR and E7200. And that's just the beginning. Consider this your "buying a computer for dummies" guide.

Even for some "geeks", buying a new computer can be a daunting task. With dozens of of factors and options to consider, it is easy to be confused on what to pick. Here are 10 questions to consider that can help guide you through your next computer purchase.
 

1. What brand should I buy? How much should I spend?

For many, this is the biggest factor and the most important question. While you can buy a computer for as little as $300-$400, you shouldn't. You might think that you're saving money, but in the long run it will cost you more. You might think that you don't need the extra power--but you do want the higher quality that typically comes with a slightly higher price tag. It's almost always worth spending a little extra to get something that's built better that will last twice as long. Paying a little more now could save you more in the long run by avoiding expensive repairs or premature replacement.

Consider this: When you buy a "cheap" computer, you're getting a system that was built using the cheapest parts available. Typically, there's a huge difference in quality between a computer that costs $400 and a computer that costs $600 or $700. If you don't have the money to step up to something a little better, consider buying a higher quality pre-owned computer (just have your mechanic give it a test drive first).

And don't let a salesman talk you into something until you've had a chance read and understand what you're getting. Some brands are notoriously lower quality compared to others, so read a few online reviews to make sure you're getting something from one of the better PC makers.
 

2. Should I buy a Desktop or a Laptop?

Both have strengths and weaknesses, and you should make this choice based on how you plan to use your new computer. Unless you need portability, buy a desktop. Laptops are more expensive than a desktop with the same specs (you get more computing power for less money with a desktop). You also typically get a larger monitor (easier on the eyes), plus an external (full-size) keyboard and mouse. Desktop computers are also typically easier to upgrade and repair. If you need portability, then get a laptop. You can always add an external monitor, keyboard and mouse to a laptop too--for a little extra dough.
 

3. What processor should I get?

This is where it can get confusing. A processor is the "brain" chip at the core of your system. Some computers come with processors made by Intel. Some come with AMD processors. Each company has dozens of options at different price points and different levels of performance. Here are the facts you'll need to consider:

Intel is generally considered the "name brand" option, and as such, Intel processors cost a little more compared to AMD. If you're trying to save as much money as possible, go with an AMD processor. AMD may be a little behind compared to Intel's technology, but the costs savings vs. performance make AMD a good choice for many users. You save about 10 percent off the price of your computer by going with an AMD processor.

Both Intel and AMD offer single core and multi-core processors. Be sure to buy a computer that has a dual core processor or better (avoid single-core at all costs). Dual core means that the processer can handle twice the traffic compared to a single core processor. In effect, a dual-core processer is two brains on one chip. A quad-core processor has four processors on one chip. Newer applications are able to take advantage of these multi-core chips and do stuff much faster. Let me say it again: much faster. Dual-core is the best choice for most people who do web surfing, pictures, emailing and word processing. Step up to quad-core or better if you plan to do video editing or run other processor-intensive applications. Hint: If it doesn't specifically say dual core or quad core, assume that what you're looking at is a single-core system.

There are other factors in addition to the number of cores that determine processor performance. Clock speed is how fast a chip operates. So a 3 gigahertz processor runs faster than a 2 gigahertz chip. While this was once the biggest performance and selling factor of a computer, now you'll be hard pressed to even find the clock speed listed when shopping for new models. Instead, Intel or AMD will use designations like E6600 to distinguish which processor is used, which means almost nothing to the average consumer. Clock-speed still plays a role in computer performance, so be sure you're comparing apples to apples and do a little homework to find the clock-speed if it isn't posted.

Typically, the more money you spend, the faster the processor will be. Cheaper computers will always have low-end "economy-grade" processors than run much slower than their more expensive counterparts. To get the best balance between cost and performance, select a middle-of-the-road processor. Typically, it only costs a few extra dollars to get something far better than the economy-grade option. Think about it this way--if you had to choose between a $399 computer and a $419 computer with a better, faster processor, which would you pick? Most people would pick the $399 computer because it costs less and because they're not aware of the differences between the two. But what if I told you the $419 computer was more than twice as fast as the $399 option? Take a look at this real example:

It only costs $20 more to jump from the default low-end (single-core) option to a much faster, dual-core processor with a faster clock speed! If you have the option to customize your new computer (as you do when buying directly from the manufacturer's websites), then definitely opt for the step-up. And for $30 more than that, you can get something even better!

When you're buying a computer in a retail store, many will come pre-built with the very low end economy processors. You may ask, "Why wouldn't computer manufacturers just go ahead and include the faster processor and increase the price by 20 dollars?" Well, they have to stay competitive with the other products on the shelf, and they know that most consumers who don't know the difference will usually buy the one that costs less. Remember, they have to use the cheapest components possible to stay competitive, and $20 extra could mean they lose the sale. Let this be another reminder to stay away from the options at the bottom-end of the market.

The above example also illustrates a few other processor performance factors in addition to the number of cores and clock speed. Notice that each option includes something called L2 and FSB. L2 is a fast memory cache (pronounced "cash") built into the processor that helps it to access information faster. The higher the amount of L2 cache, the better the processor will perform. The FSB, or front-side bus, determines how fast the processor can communicate with other system components, like the RAM memory (see below). A faster front-side bus means faster overall performance. The sweet spot in the example above would be the +$50.00 or +$70.00 option, as these give the biggest performance boosts for a reasonable price. The +$110.00 option adds quite a bit of money for a very small increase in performance compared to the 50 and 70 dollar options. A big price jump for very little performance gain is typical of high-end options like this. For most people, the high-end processor in this example just isn't worth the extra cost.

In summary--stay away from the low end, get dual core or better, but also compare clock speed, L2 cache and FSB speed before making a decision. If two computers have the same clock speed, but one has more L2 cache and a faster FSB for the same price, go with the better performance.
 

4. How much RAM do I need?

RAM is short for Random Access Memory. (You'll also sometimes see it referred to as DDR or some variation. That's just referring to the type of RAM a computer has). RAM is "short-term" memory that your computer uses for running applications and performing other tasks (when you turn your computer off, the RAM memory is cleared).

Your computer can read information in and out of RAM much faster than it can read it from your hard drive, where data is permanently stored. When you turn your computer on, it begins loading information from the slower hard drive to the faster RAM memory. Because of this, you'll typically see a big performance increase just by adding extra RAM to your new computer.

A long, long time ago (almost 10 years ago now--which is a long time in the tech world), computer manufacturers would put very little RAM memory in computers. A new Windows XP system preconfigured with 256 megabytes of RAM would run dreadfully slow. Why? Because Windows XP needed 512 megabytes of RAM to just run itself! And you need more RAM on top of that to run applications--so 256 megabytes of RAM was completely inadequate. Many people would blame "Windows" for their problems and frustrations, but the real culprit was the manufacturers trying to maximize profit by skimping on RAM. The same thing happened with Vista--computers needed at least 1 gigabyte of RAM (twice what XP needed) to run Windows well, and many come preinstalled with only 512 megabytes (half what Vista needed). So it doesn't matter if you have the fastest processor available--without enough RAM your computer will still crawl.

Having the right amount of RAM can easily double or triple your overall computer performance. The cost of RAM has gone down quite a bit, so computer manufactures aren't frugal with it like they used to be. If you have the option, add more RAM when purchasing a new computer, or buy one that comes with plenty of RAM preinstalled. A new computer today running Windows 7 should have a minimum of 2 gigabytes of RAM (that's 8 times more than the 256 megabytes of yesteryear!). For the best performance on today's systems, you should have at least 4 gigabytes of RAM.
 

5. Should I get a hard drive (HDD) or a solid state drive (SSD)?

Solid state drives, or SSDs, have become more common in the last few years. Your computer's drive stores your information and programs. Hard drives save data to spinning discs inside a metal enclosure, whereas SSDs save data on memory chips that contain no moving parts. Which is better? Solid State Drives are typically much faster than hard drives. In fact, in most computers, the hard drive is the slowest component in the whole system, so replacing a hard drive with a solid state drive could give you a significant performance boost.

While modern SSDs are faster, they also tend to have less capacity than hard drives--that is--they hold less data (you might only be able to save 2 million songs and pictures instead of 5 million--bummer). While a hard drive can easily store 500 gigabytes of data or more, SSDs usually have a maximum capacity of 256 gigabytes or less (the average SSD has one forth to one half the capacity of an average hard drive). SSDs also cost quite a bit more than traditional hard drives--about three times as much as a comparable hard drive. SSDs do run cooler, are completely silent, and use less power than hard drives, but not enough for most users to notice. Unless you're a power user, for now I'd recommend sticking with the traditional hard drive. If you need the extra speed and have the extra cash, go with the SSD. As SSD capacities continue to go up and prices continue to come down, opting for SSD technology becomes a no-brainer.

Either way, a 320 gigabyte hard drive is probably more than adequate for what you'll need. Most people use less than 100 gigabytes of space on their hard drive. If you have lots of pictures, video, or other media, you might opt for a larger drive (500 gigabytes or more).

Traditional hard drives also have a "spin speed" measured in RPMs, or rounds-per-minute. That tells you how fast the spinning discs inside the hard drive rotate, typically either 5400 RPM or 7200 RPM. As a general rule, the faster the discs spin, the faster the hard drive can retrieve the information.
 

6. Should I buy an extended warranty?

Don't buy extended warranty plans on Desktop computers. Most new computers come with a 12 month warranty (in fact, make sure you get one with a 12 month warranty--not 90 days). If something is defective, you'll typically know within the first year. If something does go wrong with your desktop computer 2 or three years after purchasing it, you can probably take it to a computer repair shop and get it fixed for less than the extended warranty would have cost up front (going through the manufacturer for the repair will likely be more costly). But really--if your computer dies after three or four years, it may be time to buy a new one anyway. Realistically, you can expect your new computer to last about 3 to 5 years before it needs to be replaced--stretching the lifespan long past five years is risky. A high-end system may last 7 to 10 years, but you'll probably want something newer before that anyway. A few years down the road you can get a much faster computer for less than you paid the first time around.

Unlike desktops, you might consider buying the extended warranty on laptops. Laptops are more expensive to repair than desktop computers. Local repair shops aren't typically equipped to repair laptops; you have to go through the manufacturer. A single non-warranty repair can easily end up costing more than the laptop is worth.
 

7. Should I pay extra for Antivirus Software?

When you purchase a computer directly from a manufacturer's website, like HP or Dell, they'll offer to sell you an antivirus protection subscription for 1 to 3 years. Pre-built systems will often come with a trial security subscription that you can pay to renew. It might seem like a good deal, but don't do it. There are too many excellent and free security products available that work just as well (if not better) than the paid products the manufacturers are peddling. Check out Microsoft's free Security Essentials or Comodo's free Internet Security instead.

As a general rule, never buy software (even office software) from the computer manufacturer. You can get it less expensive from Amazon or other retailers—or even for free. Spend the extra 50+ bucks you save on a better processor or more RAM.
 

8. Should I get a Netbook?

For everyday computing, the answer is "absolutely not". A netbook is a super small laptop designed for ultimate portability. To get that portability you have to make some pretty significant sacrifices. Yes, you get decent battery life, but the processor is only marginally faster than those that come with calculators (insert slight exaggeration here). The screen is small, the keyboard is smaller, and the only thing big about it will be your frustration and regret. So unless you really need portability and a laptop won't work, avoid the netbook niche.
 

9. What about the Monitor?

Laptops come with a built-in screen, but that doesn't mean that you shouldn't consider the options. Most manufactures will throw in the cheapest option, which is almost never what you're going to be happy with. There are two things to consider in regard to the screen when purchasing a laptop: screen size and resolution. Screen size is measured diagonally (from bottom left to top right), and most laptop screens are between 13 and 17 inches using that measurement. The bigger the screen you get, the bigger and heavier the laptop.

Resolution is the second factor, and that indicates the number of pixels (or points of light) on the screen. A higher resolution screen will be able to show more detail compared to a lower resolution screen. Currently, most laptop screens (regardless of their diagonal measurement) have a resolution of 1366x768 (sometimes called 720p because it meets the minimum and somewhat misleading requirement for being called "high-definition"). A low resolution screen means that you can fit less stuff on the screen (because there are few pixels). That's a big deal because your Internet Explorer or Microsoft Word toolbar may take up a third of your screen real estate, giving you less room to work or browse. It's usually worth the jump to a higher resolution screen (keep in mind that many low-end laptops won't even offer higher resolution screens). If you want the best experience while watching movies, go with 1920x1080, also sometimes called 1080p (because it has 1080 lines of resolution down the screen and meets the current standard of "high-definition").

Sometimes your new Desktop PC won't even come with a monitor, in which case you will need to purchase it separately. That's good because it gives you the option of choosing the one that will work best for you. (Some sites like HP will offer to sell you a monitor along with your PC purchase, but you'll usually find a better deal on the same equipment elsewhere).

Most users will find that a 20 or 22 inch monitor (also measured diagonally from corner to corner) is the perfect compromise between size and affordability. If you watch movies on your screen too, you might opt for something bigger. You still need to consider resolution, regardless of which monitor you choose, but most larger (24+ inches) external monitors today are going to be 1920x1080, and will run between $150 and $200. But a good external monitor could easily have the same lifespan as your new computer—plus the lifespan of your next computer too.

If you still have an old CRT monitor (you know, the one that's the size of a large pumpkin), then find the nearest public dumpster and deposit it there for safekeeping (my wife points out it may be illegal to dispose of electronics this way, so check with your local law enforcement first, or do it when no one is looking).

New monitors today are LCD panels, which are much thinner, lighter, more energy efficient, and easier on the eyes. You'll also see LED monitors--don't be confused though--an LED monitor is an LCD monitor that is illuminated by LED lights. LED backlit monitors are usually a little more expensive, but they're brighter, thinner and even more energy efficient that standard LCD screens that use traditional backlighting.

One final thought about monitors: most screens now have a 16:9 ratio, whereas previous widescreen monitors were 16:10. That means that for every 16 pixels across the screen, there are either 9 or 10 pixels down the screen. A 16:9 aspect ratio is the same as most widescreen TV sets, and that works well when watching a show or movie. You'll be hard-pressed to find a 16:10 monitor nowadays, even though that is more ideal for computer use, because 16:9 screens are cheaper to make. If you can find a 16:10 screen, it will give you a little more vertical space to work with. But it looks like 16:10 screens are going the way of the floppy disc.
 

10. Mac or PC?

I can almost hear Jedi Master Yoda saying, "A hard question this is. Meditate on it I will." Some people are very passionate about this subject--either pro-Mac/Apple or pro-PC. You may be confused and not know what to think. Let's see if we can clear things up.

Don't believe everything you see in television commercials. Good advertising is just that--advertising. Regardless of which company makes the commercial, try to avoid drinking either side's Cool Aid. (If you are a Cool Aid drinker, you'll probably be offended by at least a few statements in the following paragraphs).

Microsoft is the software company that created Microsoft Windows, the operating system that runs on about 90 percent of the computers in the world. Microsoft doesn't make the computer itself (also called the hardware, which is the part of the computer you can see and touch). Other companies, like HP and Dell, build the computers that run the software (Microsoft Windows).

Apple takes a different approach. They create and manufacture both the hardware and the software, and control the sale and distribution of both. No other company is allowed to build a computer and install Apple's Mac operating system on it. While Apple's operating system can share many types of files with Windows users (like pictures and documents), the architecture of the two systems are completely different. That means that software programs designed to run on Windows will not run on a Mac, and vice versa. And if you make the jump from PC to Mac, you'll likely have to repurchase or replace much of your existing software, like Office, with versions that work with Mac.

While Apple has a smaller share of the overall computer market, they make the most profit. Why? Because their business philosophy is the exact opposite from most PC makers. Apple puts together high quality hardware and charges a big premium for it. They're targeting users who appreciate quality (and users with lots of cash to spare). PC makers (like HP and Dell) sell a lot of lower-end equipment (in their defense, they make some higher-priced nice stuff too).

While PC makers may sell more quantity than Apple, the quality of the average PC is generally lower, and therefore they make less profit. A PC builder can sell you a laptop for $399 that cost them $349 to make. Their goal is to build it as cheaply as possible so they can maximize their profit. On the other hand, you cannot buy an Apple laptop for $399--or $499, $599, $699, $799--you can't even buy one for $899. No, the starting price for a basic Apple laptop computer is One Thousand smackeroos. It may cost Apple $600 to build it, but they just made a $400 profit on it--eight times the profit that the PC manufacturer made selling the low-end laptop. And that's why Apple is now considered the richest company on the planet.

So unless you're planning on spending more than $1000 on your next computer, Apple is not even a consideration. And in all fairness, you can purchase a very nice PC for under $1000.

Some will argue that PCs are susceptible to viruses and that Apple computers are not, justifying the extra cost. That's misleading, if not totally inaccurate. No operating system is immune from attack. You can just as easily have your account number stolen on a PC as you can on a Mac by responding to a spoof (fake) email that appears to come from your bank. Microsoft recommends that all users install and use an antivirus product to protect their system--like the free Security Essentials--but a little common sense helps too. Don't open that email from someone you don't know, even if the subject line sounds interesting. Don't visit questionable websites, or download and install software from sources you don't trust. Avoid file sharing sites and don't send personal or account information by email. By following these basic rules, I have never had a virus or malware problem on any of my PCs. And Apple users who think they don't need antivirus or security software are naïve; as Apple becomes more popular, they will continue to be targeted by malware more frequently. That's just the world we live in--for both Apple and Microsoft.

Personally, I like Apple hardware, but I also prefer the Windows operating system over Apple's operating system. Many software programs (including ChurchTrac) aren't available on the Mac platform, and I like the way Windows works and operates better. Using Boot Camp, you can easily run Windows on your Mac computer, and select which operating system you want to use each time you turn on your computer. In my opinion, that's the best of both worlds—Mac hardware and Windows software. Yes, I drink the Cool Aid from both sides.

For the readers of this article, it probably isn't worth the extra cost to buy the Apple hardware. The best options for casual users will be a PC desktop in the $500-$700 range, or a PC laptop in the $600-$800 range.
 

In Conclusion...

Do you feel like a computer geek yet? Okay, that may be a little premature. The first step is to understand the basic terminology before you go to the store to shop. To practice, you might even throw out some terms like "SSD" or "L2 cache" in general conversation to impress your friends (it doesn't really matter if you don't know what you're talking about, because your friends probably won't know either). One of the best things you can do is set up a chart that compares the specs on two or more computers that you're considering, including the pros and cons of each model. In the end, make sure it is something you can live with for at least as long as you plan on keeping it—which could be 50 dog years or more for some people.

Copyright 2011 ChurchTrac Software